NSW Nordic Ski Club

PREPARING CROWN AND PATTERN BASED SKIS

Bob Cranage - Level III Coach, 2000

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AIM: To receive optimum performance from skis thereby reducing the physical effort required either in touring or completing a citizen race

WAXLESS SKIS (patterned bases)

It is for this market that 'waxless' skis were developed. However the term 'waxless skis' is a complete misnomer. Just as there is not a wax free/polish for modern cars, both P/Tex bases and 'duco' are subjected to ultra violet light and both oxidise with age.

Ski bases have already oxidised from the time of manufacture and in most cases are used straight from the ski shop without any further treatment.

Without base treatment (waxing) all P/Tex based skis's performances will continue to deteriorate until finally discarded. For your next ski trip/tour or perhaps your entry into a citizen race you should consider renovating your ski bases in order to ski more efficiently and really enjoy the experience.

Suggestions for improving waxless skis performance

Factors that effect skis performance include:

  1. The skis - are they too stiff or too soft for your body weight and snow condition?
  2. Base structure - rilled or grooved bases offer less drag compared to smooth bases in wet Australian snow.
  3. Your ability to ski - how you ride the skis down hill - do you find it comfortable to tuck and let the skis run or do you revert to snow ploughing too often?
  4. Application of a suitable wax - used to reduce friction and suction between the ski base and snow.

A considerable amount of time and money can be used to improve factors 1 and 3 but with a little time and little expense significant improvement can be gained by improving factors 2 and 4.

Structure

Before commencing these processes, examine your ski bases and fill any deep diagonal scratches in the tips and tails of your skis with TOKO POLY STRIP. This is simple to use, simply clean the scratch with a knife and using a hot iron melt the TOKO POLY STRIP into the groove. Do not worry too much about scratches that run parallel to the sides of the skis, they eventually double as rills that enhance the structure in wet snow. We prefer to use TOKO POLY STRIP in preference to P/TEX candles as less heat is required in application resulting in less damage to ski base.

Leave the poly strip to cool completely and cut back with a sharp steel scraper at the same time removing the old oxidised layer of P/Tex base. If done correctly you will have clean fresh P/Tex ready for the next stage.

Lightly steel scrape the edges and sand with grade 100-120 paper (or in the case of metal edge skis use a file - eds) for the full length of the skis - removing all the nicks and cuts as these will cause the ski to slow down.

Next step is to use Scotch Brite scouring pads or Fibertex over the entire ski base and edges, aiming to remove all the fine hairs and loose pieces of P/Tex particularly in the patterned section if you have skied over rocks etc in the past (5-10 minutes per ski is recommended).

To clean the 'gunk', old wax etc from the depths of the 'waxless' pattern, use a stiff nylon or bronze brush to brush vigorously across the base. Wash and clean the entire base with wax remover or solvent. 'Citrus' types are best. Re-brush across the pattern, ie at right angles to the skis length.

To finally add the structure to the top and tail zones use the STAR RILLER or a BRIKO coarse steel brush (with the steel brush diagonally sweep across the ski -eds). The fine irregular grooves will allow the water droplets formed between the ski base and compressed snow, to escape to the sides of the ski reducing suction. If you are uncertain about carrying out this process, seek the assistance of an experienced waxer, they will be only too willing to share their knowledge with you. Alternatively if you are really serious about improving your ski's performance and wish to extend the life of your favourite 'waxless' skis for another 2-3 years, consider having the bases 'stone ground'. This will alleviate the need to fill scratches, scrape bases and rill all in one operation. Costs are around $40-$45 per pair of skis.

A good base structure to be fitted on your riller for Australian moist snow conditions is medium to coarse rills approx .75-1.00 mm apart. This should last the entire season.

Waxing

  1. Liquid and Paste Waxes
  2. Rub on solid waxes
  3. Hot waxing - iron on paraffin and synthetic waxes with fluoro carbon additives

Liquid and Paste Waxes

These can be applied to the full length of the ski including the patterned area. They are easy to use and usually come with a cloth or felt applicator. These waxes include SWIX F4 (paste), TOKO TF 90 (paste or liquid), Rode Topglide (liquid), START Silicon (liquid). STAR Easy Glide (Fluoro), MAXI GLIDE Maxx Waxx Fluoro, & Zardoz not wax.

Although easy to apply following manufacturers instructions remember to polish thoroughly with a clean cloth to gain maximum benefits. Do not leave excess in the patterned area to collect dirt etc. Paste and liquid waxes generally do not appear to be as durable, you may need to reapply waxes daily or in very abrasive snow conditions during your tour.

However these waxes are essential to maintain good glide in the patterned areas of waxless skis. Racers and keen tourers also use these products on the side walls and top surfaces of their skis to prevent drag and build up of loose snow. They are well worth the effort required and the small costs involved.

Rub on Solid Waxes

Eg, TOKO Dibloc X and TOKO BLOCX Star MP10 (Map 100) & MP30 (Map 200), Toko Streamline & 100% fluoro blocks from STAR START, SWIX, etc. These new products have evolved from the Fluoro carbon technology that has become everyday practice in elite racing circles.

The fluoro carbon added to these waxes will improve performance by resisting the absorbtion of water and repelling dirt in high humidity weather conditions. TOKO BLOCX comes with its built in felt polishing pad.

Simply rub the block onto the tips and tails of skis and polish with the felt pad.

These products have become that quick touch up wax used by racers before an event or even during events, when the snow has thawed and many racers experience the dreaded problem of slow skis as their energy reserves become depleted towards the end of the race.

Also ski instructors will find the less expensive rub on/solid waxes useful and easy to use when they encounter pupils with slow or 'balling up' skis.

Hot Waxing

Hot waxing ski bases definitely lasts longer than other forms of waxing as the heat used usually permits the wax to penetrate the base material. But hot waxing requires a little time and a little effort, not to mention deciding which wax to choose for a particular condition. Brands such as SWIX, TOKO, RODE, REX, SOLDA, START, STAR, BRIKO, HOLMENKOLLEN etc are available. It is suggested you stick with one brand, following the manufacturer's instructions. You can broaden your approach and experiment with another brand as you gain more experience.

How to apply hot waxes, including the new synthetic waxes is covered in detail in the the HOT WAXING INFORMATION SHEET available from SNOWGUM Wodonga or in any complete guide to cross-country skiing.

Some basic tips would include using an old iron set at a very low temperature - do not let the wax smoke or vaporise off the iron - this has proven to be harmful and can effect your race performances if you have waxed skis in an enclosed space within 24 hours of skiing - see manufacturer's instructions for details. Specific wax irons eg STAR , TOKO & SWIX are more expensive but do control the temperature variation to within 4-5ºC rather than 40-50ºC for old house hold irons. Be careful not to burn or scorch the base material as wax will not penetrate burnt bases.

Apply the wax by dripping or crayoning it onto the base.

Iron the wax out smoothly, ironing for 2-5 minutes, keeping the iron moving at all times.

Leave the skis cool for approximately 20 minutes, depending upon brand and type of wax used, then scrape with a plastic scraper.

Finally, finish off by brushing with a stiff nylon brush, making sure that all excess wax is removed from the rills and structure - any wax left in the structure or on the base will only cause dirt to adhere to the wax and reduce efficiency.

Some very serious X-C racers who use Fischer RCS crown racing skis apply more expensive Fluoro carbon paraffin waxes or even straight Fluoro powders to the tips and tails of their skis to gain that extra few % of improved performance.

Whatever method you choose you can be assured that your skis will have improved glide, and coupled with improved skills you will be skiing more efficiently.

Good gliding and enjoyable skiing.

Bob is the proprietor of Snowgum Wodonga and is one of the few level III coaches in Australia. In recent years his shop has been awarded by Skiing Australia as Ski Shop of the Year His address is:

Snowgum Wodonga
161 High St. Wodonga 3690
Tel: (02) 6056 6605 & (02) 6024 5488, Fax: (02) 6056 2395
E-mail: bcranage@dragnet.com.au
Website: www.cranage-xc.dragnet.com.au

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